Travel :: Features

Culinary Indulgence, Belgian Style

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by Matthew Wexler
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Seared scallop with beet and parsnip puree, L’art de Vivre  (Source:Matthew Wexler)

Epic Epicurean Adventures

You can fill your days in Belgium with small tastings and beer samplings, but when the sun sets there is nothing more satisfying than settling into a long dinner. Belgians don’t rush through meals, so be prepared for an evening longer than a Grétry opera.

Orphyse Chaussette (Rue Charles Hanssens 5 B, Brussels) near the Grand Sablon is a cozy restaurant with inspiration from the south of France. Menu items include heirloom beets and Stilton cheese, a classic foie gras with apple compote, and guinea fowl with root vegetables and chorizo sausage. A carefully curated wine list includes quirky finds such as 
Château Pech Redon’s 2004 Les Genêts, a Chardonnay-Viognier blend.

Walk across the town square to L’art de Vivre (Avenue Reine Astrid 53, Spa) after a day at the thermal baths in Spa. The exquisitely serene dining room holds but a handful of tables for the lucky few who manage to experience Chef Jean-François Douffet’s contemporary cuisine. From venison carpaccio to gray sole with parsnip purée, his technique-driven approach hits all the right notes and is presented in an architectural style that elevates the entire dining experience.

In contrast is the self-declared feminine culinary style of Michelin-star chef Arabelle Meirlaen of Li Cwerneu (Grand Place 2, Huy). Her kitchen "is not a discipline of rules and laws. It is its own style. Here is a woman’s kitchen." Meirlaen draws from her own garden and composes whimsical dishes such as Pot de Légumes du moment (fresh baby vegetables, herbs and "dirt" that is actually edible vegetal charcoal). Fear not if your heart stops during the 10-course culinary extravaganza. You will surely be whisked away by Meirlaen’s husband and sommelier Pierre Thirifays who will revive you with a glass of 2005 Domaine Adenis Agapê (an intoxicating blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignane) or some other libation.

Whether you choose to keep your Wallonia adventure low-key with brewery visits and authentic street food or opt for decadent dining experiences that last late into the night, Belgium will welcome you with open arms. You will leave satiated and serene, appreciative of a food culture that is ever-changing and undoubtedly contributing to the harmony of its people.


Vintage Hotel  (Source:Vintage Hotel)

Beyond the Bite

From charming independent hotels to five-star accommodations, you’ll be sure to get a restful night in preparation for your next gastronomic adventure.

Vintage Hotel (Rue Dejoncker 45, Brussels) is a quirky throwback to the 1980’s. Featuring 29 rooms with retro fittings, the property is around the corner from the fashionable Avenue Louise where you can pick up more modern styles.

The Dominican (Rue Léopold/Leopoldstraat 9, Brussels) is on the site of a 15th century Dominican Abbey as well as the former home of French painter Jacques-Louis David. The soaring ceilings and original stone floors offer a serene respite from the hustle of the nearby Grand Place and other attractions.

Crowne Plaza Liège (Mont Saint Martin 9-11, Liège) is a stunning archeological and architectural achievement. Meticulous restoration combines the town house of Sélys Longchamps and Comtes de Méan while integrating sustainable development.

Radisson Blu Palace Hotel (Place Royale 39 - 4900, Spa) is in the heart of Spa and adjacent to a funicular that will carry you to the famed Les Thermes de Spa, which offers an array of healing thermal baths, saunas, and massage treatments.


Matthew Wexler is EDGE’s National Style and Travel Editor. More of his writing can be found at www.roodeloo.com. He is also a trained chef and currently writing a food memoir.


This article is part of our "Summer 2012" series. Want to read more? Here's the full list»

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